na ** p.m.s ** PiteR pisze tak:

> na ** p.m.s ** J.F. pisze tak:
>
>> Pozostale sruby trzymaja, ale ze dwie udalo mi sie troche dokrecic.
>> Klucza dynamometrycznego nie mam, dokrecam "na reke" :-)
>
> a szkoda bo są po 80zł :)
>
> Smaruje i nie znikają tyle, że mam klucz dyn to nie odpadają łebki
> 110 Nm łatwo przeroczyć nie mówiąc o tych co stają na kluczu.


a co mówi wujek google:


Wheel bolts / nuts / studs are safety critical. The manufacturers
specified method of wheel nut tightening should be followed. Usually,
that spec is for clean, dry threads, although I don't know if that is
true for every type of car - check your manual.

The purpose of tightening a fastener is to introduce preload into the
shank of the fastener, and corresponding compression into the joint
members. This combined system then protects the shank of the bolt from
enduring the full applied load. Typically, a properly preloaded bolt
only sees 20% of any applied load. Properly preloaded is the important
part - not excessive, nor insufficient preload - the correct preload.

Technically, by reducing the friction between the nut and thread you
put more preload in the shank of the fastener per unit torque than for
a dry set up. This reduces the margin between the operating preload and
the yield preload for the fastener. i.e., it makes overload of the
fastener more likely.

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=
33033


--
Piter

Sweet little girl I prefer
You behind the wheel
Me the passenger